- My cutter is cutting uneven and is too low in the front?
- My mower does not cut grass cleanly?
- When I disengage the cutter, the belt comes off?
- I fitted a new cutter belt and the cutter brake won’t stop the cutter.
- My drive chain keeps coming off and is stretching?
- I may be over-tightening the drive chain, what is the correct adjustment?
- The steering is stiff and the steering wheel comes loose all the time?
- Can I hose my machine down with water to clean it?
- What type of fuel and oil should I use in my mower?
- Engine does not start (turn over) and there is a clicking sound from around the dash (steering console) area?
- Engine does not start (turn over). The battery has been checked and there is no clicking sound
- How do I get the front and rear wheels off my mower?
My cutter is cutting uneven and is too low in the front?
Check and adjust tyre pressures, especially the front tyres. Check tyre diameters, one maybe worn or a different brand replacement used. The cutter is usually low on the side of the smallest diameter front tyre. Some times swapping the front wheels will correct the problem. If this is not possible, remove the cutter assembly connecting linkage and clamp in a vice and twist linkage to suit. On late model machines there is a slide adjuster on the front axle to cutter linkage for left to right adjustment. With engine off and tyre pressures checked, engage the cutter and adjust the rear lifting link nut to level the deck front to rear. The height control handle will raise one or two notches for full height.
My mower does not cut grass cleanly?
Check and adjust engine belt, check blades are not bent up, twisted or worn, blades have been fitted the right way. Also check for wear in cutter pulley’s and other belt tension.
I fitted a new cutter belt and the cutter brake won’t stop the cutter.
Cutter disengagement should be adjusted so that when the engine is started and the cutter is raised to full height there is no take up of the belt. The cutter brake will only stop the disc if the cutter belt disengagement is adjusted correctly. (Screw adjuster out for more disengagement). Belt may be stretched (replace).
My drive chain keeps coming off and is stretching?
First, check the sprocket alignment, either the rear axle or internal shaft has moved. Check both sprockets for wear, especially the small sprocket, as this will reduce the life of a new chain. Lubricate the chain (motorbike type chain lube), chains will wear from rust between the pins and rollers. Also check and adjust engine belt as increased clutch pedal pressure may have pushed the internal shaft out of alignment. Tighten bearing grub screws and lock collars.
I may be over-tightening the drive chain, what is the correct adjustment?
Jack up the rear of the machine, lubricate the chain and adjust the chain idler so there is a small amount of slack in the chain at it’s tightest point while slowly rotating the rear wheels.
The steering is stiff and the steering wheel comes loose all the time?
If the stub axles have not been greased or greased correctly for some time, they will start to tighten up and place more load on the steering universal and wheel. Regular greasing is necessary especially in dusty dry conditions or after the machine has been washed. When greasing, enough grease should be purged through to clear the old grease out from the top and bottom of the stub axle bush. The front of the mower should be jacked up, if no grease exudes from the bottom of the bush then pump grease through again. If this is not successful the stub axle will have to be removed to clear the grease ways.
Can I hose my machine down with water to clean it?
Yes, however, compressed air is preferred. If using water pressure the machine MUST BE cold or allowed to cool down for a minimum of two hours after use. After hosing check and service engine air cleaner as water may have entered (do not apply high-pressure water to hour meter and switches). The machine should be started, driven and cutter engaged then stopped and allowed to dry before greasing stub axles and lubricating chain and linkages etc, before storage. (Use compressed air and wipe clean if possible).
Engine does not start (turn over) and there is a clicking sound from around the dash (steering console) area?
The clicking sound is the solenoid operating which usually indicates the electrical circuit is ok (micro switches). Check the battery, solenoid, starter and earth terminals are clean and tight. If all connections are correct the fault lies in the battery. The battery should be removed and charged and if it will not accept or hold charge it needs replacing. Allow battery to stand for minimum of 30 minutes after charging before installing.
Engine does not start (turn over). The battery has been checked and there is no clicking sound?
With the ignition switched off connect a wire from the live side of the battery or from the solenoid terminal to the small terminal, connection on the side of the solenoid. (Where the blue wire is connected). The solenoid should pull in and the engine turn over, if it does not the solenoid is faulty. If the solenoid is ok, the fault is in the wiring or micro switches. To check micro switches, disconnect the blue wires from the heel switch and join together (a paper clip can be used), do the same with the disengagement handle switch, then attempt to start the engine. If the engine turns over the fault is in one or both switches.
To check which one simply reconnect one switch at a time and attempt to start the engine. If the engine fails to turn over after connecting the blue wires together, with the paper clip the fault is in the wiring. The machine should be checked out by a Cox dealer or an Auto Electrician if the above test procedure is difficult.
DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH FAULTY OR DISCONNECTED MICRO (SAFETY) SWITCHES.
Remember to connect the blue wires to the correct terminals 1 and 3, failure to do this may burn out the engine ignition coil.
How do I get the front and rear wheels off my mower?
Remove hub cap using multi grips, jack up machine and remove the stub axle nut using 30mm or 1 3/16” socket spanner or remove the steering tie rod bolt and split pin or circlip on the stub axle and allow the wheel assembly to drop out.
Using a 24mm or 15/16 socket spanner, remove the rear axle nut and washer. Spray the axle both sides of the wheel hub with CRC or similar. Replace the nut and leave flush with the end of the axle. With the mower still on the ground use a suitable solid drift (brass, aluminium, hard wood) against the axle and nut, and with two or three solid hits with a large hammer the wheel hub should break free from the taper on the axle. Jack the machine up to remove wheel. When replacing wheel hub, grease the axle before installing, keeping grease clear of axle taper. Tighten axle nut firmly and re check for tightness after 5 to 10 hours of operation.
Note: If possible, pump up a flat tyre before trying to remove a rear wheel.
The wheels were designed to allow the tyres to be removed without removing the wheel. Jack machine up and break the tyre bead away from both sides of the rim, squeeze the tyre sides together and push down into well of rim and peel out over the bottom edge.